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By the Ionian Sea: Notes of a Ramble in Southern Italy
- Pages
- about 138
- Category
- Literature & Fiction
- Language
- English
- Reading time
- 2.5 h at 250 wpm
From the opening
I slept little, and was very early on deck, scanning by the light of
dawn a mountainous coast. At sunrise I learnt that we were in sight of
Paola; as day spread gloriously over earth and sky, the vessel hove to
and prepared to land cargo. There, indeed, was the yellowish little
town which I had so long pictured; it stood at a considerable height
above the shore; harbour there was none at all, only a broad beach of
shingle on which waves were breaking, and where a cluster of men, women
and children stood gazing at the steamer. It gave me pleasure to find
the place so small and primitive. In no hurry to land, I watched the
unloading of merchandise (with a great deal of shouting and
gesticulation) into boats which had rowed out for the purpose;
speculated on the resources of Paola in the matter of food (for I was
hungry); and at moments cast an eye towards the mountain barrier which
it was probable I should cross to-day.
At last my portmanteau was dropped down on to the laden boat; I, as
best I could, managed to follow it; and on the top of a pile of rope
and empty flour-sacks we rolled landward. The surf was high; it cost
much yelling, leaping, and splashing to gain the dry beach. Meanwhile,
not without apprehension, I had eyed the group awaiting our arrival;
that they had their eyes on me was obvious, and I knew enough of
southern Italians to foresee my reception. I sprang into the midst of a
clamorous conflict; half a dozen men were quarreling for possession of
me. No sooner was my luggage on shore than they flung themselves upon
it. By what force of authority I know not, one of the fellows
triumphed; he turned to me with a satisfied smile, and--presented his
wife.
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